Sega Net City, New Net City (NNC), Tri-Sync CRT cabinets
With the Jammafier 2.0, you got everything you need. If you see a bit of geometry distortion, try switching between C and HV sync. Toshiba monitors seem to prefer HV sync, while Sanwa PFX seem to prefer C sync.
Taito Vewlix, Namco Noir, LCD cabinets in general
The RetroTink 5X pro, especially with later firmware versions, is a good alternative for LCD cabinets.
Sync must be set to C-sync (default), and you can power the 5X directly from the Jammafier.
Sega Naomi Universal
The Naomi Universal cabinets are 31kHz/VGA only, so you will need a scaler for JAMMA video. The Retro Scaler A1 is purpose built for JAMMA games and perfect companion. With Rev 2.0 of the Jammafier, set video to “JAMMA”. You can power the A1 directly from the Jammafier.
Namco CyberLead / Namco Cyber Lead II / Konami Windy II
These cabinets are a little technical, as they were built to support both JVS and JAMMA games. From the factory they came with a Jamma converter like the Jammafier. If your cab is missing this converter, or if it’s broken – you can use a Jammafier as a replacement.
Audio output is AC coupled, impedance about 510 ohms, and 0.5x the level of the Jamma input. In English, this means that the RCA connectors on the Jammafier are ‘line out’ and suitable for an external amplifier. Since most amplifiers are stereo, the Jammafier has 2 outputs so you don’t have to fiddle with a ‘Y-cable’ to get sound in both speakers.
Details for the technically inclined
Jamma boards have onboard amplifiers designed for physical loudspeakers via a positive and a negative terminal, which is unfortunately not “line out” with more oomphf.
Should you simply connect this to an external amplifier, while being careful to turn the volume down to get “line level” – you will short out the negative audio terminal on the Jamma board, which is bad, and will likely destroy or overheat the amplifier chip on your board.
Some games cheap out and use GND for “speaker -“, but it’s not all that common.
This table shows what’s been observed in the wild:
Very few boards
The Jammafier use Speaker+ by default. Should you encounter one of the very few boards that have GND on the Speaker+ pin (resulting in silence via the Jammafier), you can flip a switch on the Jammafier to use Speaker- instead.
The Namco adapter has a PCB bug that is factory fixed with green jumper wires, but the resulting circuit is a little odd.
Riverservice RS Issues
The Riverservice adapter does not (properly) attenuate audio, which is not a big issue as long as you dial the the volume down on your board. The AC coupling capacitor on the one I have has a low capacitance, resulting in bass frequencies being blocked.
The Konami board does a lot right, and the Jammafier is heavily inspired by this design.
Most Tri-Sync monitors switch automatically between 31kHz, 24kHz and 15kHz video, unfortunately they cannot switch automatically between Jamma level RGB (high-impedance), and VGA level RGB (low-impedance). The solution provided by the manufacturers is either
Dedicated connector for high-impedance video (most common)
High/Low impedance switch (pretty rare)
Some tri-sync monitors also have issues with the composite sync signals from some games, most notably Taito F3.
Tri-Sync Helper rev 2.0
To make this a little easier, you can order this add-on board that plugs directly into the Jammafier. It performs two functions:
RGB attenuation and re-amplification
Sync separation and re-generation
Selectable output with either regenerated CSYNC or H/V sync
It transforms the video from high to low impedance, and also cleans and separates the sync from Jamma into horizontal and vertical sync. This way you will only need one video cable, and no switches to worry about. It should also take care of most sync problems. It is important to note that it does not change the scan rate – you will need a scaler if your monitor does not support 15kHz Jamma video.
Do I want a Tri-Sync Helper checklist?
I’m using the Retro Scaler A1
No, you do not need a helper, the A1 can process raw jamma video signals.
But using a Tri-Sync Helper will make the A1 better?
No, it will not
I’m using the Jammafier with a Tri-Sync monitor
Yes, a helper will make your life easier
I want to use the OSSC with the Jammafier
Yes, you need the helper to attenuate RGB. The sync processing of the helper will also assist the OSSC and make it less painful to use with arcade boards.
I have a Vewlix cabinet..
A vewlix LCD requires a scaler, if you use the A1 you do not need a helper. If you use the OSSC, you need a helper.
Powering the Tri-Sync Helper
The Tri-Sync Helper is powered via pin 9 on it’s input connector. The Jammafier can will supply this.
Jammafier rev 1.7
Jammafiers are shipped with the switch in the off position, change it to the 5V position to supply power to the helper.
Jammafier earlier revisions
Close this solder jumper with a blob of solder to enable 5V via VGA.