Sega Net City, New Net City (NNC), Tri-Sync CRT cabinets
With the Jammafier 2.0, you got everything you need. If you see a bit of geometry distortion, try switching between C and HV sync. Toshiba monitors seem to prefer HV sync, while Sanwa PFX seem to prefer C sync.
Taito Vewlix, Namco Noir, LCD cabinets in general
The RetroTink 5X pro, especially with later firmware versions, is a good alternative for LCD cabinets.
Sync must be set to C-sync (default), and you can power the 5X directly from the Jammafier.
Jammafier 2.0, RetoTInk 5X, SCART from RetroGamingCables
Sega Naomi Universal
The Naomi Universal cabinets are 31kHz/VGA only, so you will need a scaler for JAMMA video. The Retro Scaler A1 is purpose built for JAMMA games and perfect companion. With Rev 2.0 of the Jammafier, set video to “JAMMA”. You can power the A1 directly from the Jammafier.
Jammafier 2.0 with Retro Scaler A1
Namco CyberLead / Namco Cyber Lead II / Konami Windy II
These cabinets are a little technical, as they were built to support both JVS and JAMMA games. From the factory they came with a Jamma converter like the Jammafier. If your cab is missing this converter, or if it’s broken – you can use a Jammafier as a replacement.
Audio output is AC coupled, impedance about 510 ohms, and 0.5x the level of the Jamma input. In English, this means that the RCA connectors on the Jammafier are ‘line out’ and suitable for an external amplifier. Since most amplifiers are stereo, the Jammafier has 2 outputs so you don’t have to fiddle with a ‘Y-cable’ to get sound in both speakers.
Details for the technically inclined
Jamma boards have onboard amplifiers designed for physical loudspeakers via a positive and a negative terminal, which is unfortunately not “line out” with more oomphf.
Should you simply connect this to an external amplifier, while being careful to turn the volume down to get “line level” – you will short out the negative audio terminal on the Jamma board, which is bad, and will likely destroy or overheat the amplifier chip on your board.
Some games cheap out and use GND for “speaker -“, but it’s not all that common.
This table shows what’s been observed in the wild:
Pin
Speaker +
Speaker –
Most boards
Speaker +
Speaker –
Some boards
Speaker +
GND
Very few boards
GND
Speaker +
The Jammafier use Speaker+ by default. Should you encounter one of the very few boards that have GND on the Speaker+ pin (resulting in silence via the Jammafier), you can flip a switch on the Jammafier to use Speaker- instead.
Namco Issues
The Namco adapter has a PCB bug that is factory fixed with green jumper wires, but the resulting circuit is a little odd.
Riverservice RS Issues
The Riverservice adapter does not (properly) attenuate audio, which is not a big issue as long as you dial the the volume down on your board. The AC coupling capacitor on the one I have has a low capacitance, resulting in bass frequencies being blocked.
Konami
The Konami board does a lot right, and the Jammafier is heavily inspired by this design.
The Cyber Lead is JVS from factory, and was shipped with a JVS to JAMMA adapter, however if broken or not included with cab, an original replacement can be tricky and expensive to source.
To play Jamma games in a cab that is missing its original adapter, the recommended setup is:
Jammafier
Tri-Sync Helper
Monitor
No scaler required, but expects different levels and impedance than native Jamma.
IO Board
Has a sticker with “I/O LED (I/O) PCB” on it – verified working
LCD monitor, not natively capable of using signals from Jamma games, and needs an upscaler. Alternatives are:
Official Taito Jamma kit Scaler, if you have this you probably also have the Jamma harness and you don’t need anything
Retro Scaler A1 – easy plug & play, depending on game and monitor you may not see all vertical lines in games with >240 lines of video.
OSSC with the Tri-Sync Helper. The Tri-Sync Helper attenuates the video to a safe level for the OSSC, and also fixes some sync issues the OSSC has. Requires a bit of tweaking to get optimal results.
IO Board
Verified.
Revision 1.4 (serial 1 to 18) will only work with the Vewlix IO after resistor R1 is removed, this is not an issue for rev 1.5 and later.
The Windy II has its own Konami JAMMA adapter, however if broken or not included with the cab, an original replacement can be tricky and expensive to source.
To play Jamma games in a cab that is missing its original adapter, the recommended setup is:
Jammafier
Tri-Sync Helper
With this setup, everything is pretty much plug&play as the Konami IO is already designed to work with an adapter.
Monitor
Made with a Toshiba A68LBT696X and PB7534 TriSync Tube/Chassis. With the Tri-Sync Helper there you don’t need to change switches or change cables to swap between 31kHz JVS games and Jamma games.
The Jammafier supports JVS cabinet linking. This is typically used for fighter games where each player will use a dedicated cabinet, while the actual game is located in the primary cabinet.
Installation
If your primary IO has a slave port, connect JVS cable from secondary cabinet to this port. An easy way to do this is to use a passive USB extension cable.
There is no configuration on the Jammafier – if it sees a secondary IO it will enable Cabinet Linking.
Link logic
Player 1 inputs on secondary cabinet will be player 2 on primary cabinet.
Player 2 inputs on both cabinets are ignored.
Primary and secondary non-player input will be merged, i.e coin1 on secondary will be coin1 on Jamma edge.
Requirements
Primary IO board must have a slave port
Secondary cabinet must be powered if link cable is connected.
Most Tri-Sync monitors switch automatically between 31kHz, 24kHz and 15kHz video, unfortunately they cannot switch automatically between Jamma level RGB (high-impedance), and VGA level RGB (low-impedance). The solution provided by the manufacturers is either
Dedicated connector for high-impedance video (most common)
High/Low impedance switch (pretty rare)
Some tri-sync monitors also have issues with the composite sync signals from some games, most notably Taito F3.
Tri-Sync Helper rev 2.0
To make this a little easier, you can order this add-on board that plugs directly into the Jammafier. It performs two functions:
RGB attenuation and re-amplification
Sync separation and re-generation
Selectable output with either regenerated CSYNC or H/V sync
It transforms the video from high to low impedance, and also cleans and separates the sync from Jamma into horizontal and vertical sync. This way you will only need one video cable, and no switches to worry about. It should also take care of most sync problems. It is important to note that it does not change the scan rate – you will need a scaler if your monitor does not support 15kHz Jamma video.
Do I want a Tri-Sync Helper checklist?
I’m using the Retro Scaler A1
No, you do not need a helper, the A1 can process raw jamma video signals.
But using a Tri-Sync Helper will make the A1 better?
No, it will not
I’m using the Jammafier with a Tri-Sync monitor
Yes, a helper will make your life easier
I want to use the OSSC with the Jammafier
Yes, you need the helper to attenuate RGB. The sync processing of the helper will also assist the OSSC and make it less painful to use with arcade boards.
I have a Vewlix cabinet..
A vewlix LCD requires a scaler, if you use the A1 you do not need a helper. If you use the OSSC, you need a helper.
Powering the Tri-Sync Helper
The Tri-Sync Helper is powered via pin 9 on it’s input connector. The Jammafier can will supply this.
Jammafier rev 1.7
Jammafiers are shipped with the switch in the off position, change it to the 5V position to supply power to the helper.
Jammafier earlier revisions
Close this solder jumper with a blob of solder to enable 5V via VGA.
I got this setup myself, and it’s the main reason these projects exist. To play Jamma games in this cab, recommended setup is:
Jammafier
Retro Scaler A1
With this setup, everything is pretty much plug&play – the scaler can be powered from the Jammafier with a standard USB cable. You do not need the Tri-Sync Helper in with this setup.
Monitor
Made with either Sanwa or Nanao monitor. The Nanao monitor has better image. Neither monitor supports 15kHz video and requires a scaler.
